Thursday, November 29, 2007

death, riots, and a cabaret singer

I have good news and bad news.

The good news is, I killed the mosquito!

The bad news is, she wasn't alone.

Therefore, I've started to sleep coated in bug spray. My room smells like camp. I'm not sure why my little blue thing that I plugged in stopped working but it's really getting me down. I just thank God every day that I don't wake up with a bug bite on my eyelid (as my dedicated readers know, this as happened to me twice in my life) or on the tip of my nose (this has happened once). Alors, things could always be worse. I did figure out how to turn down the heat in my room. It's now less of a tropical swamp habitat and more of a temperate deciduous forest.

Today at my high school (about 2 days behnd the rest of the country) the students decided to go on strike. Now those less familiar with the French mindset might ask themselves, "What are they on strike from? They don't get paid nor do they produce any goods/provide any services" This would be a valid point if it weren't for the fact that French people aren't tied down to logic. There are host of reasons why various students across the country are on strike (the privitization of the univsersities, the riots in the South etc.) but it seems, from talking with my students, that lycéeans in St. Brieuc are mad because Sarkozy has proposed to shorten the length of time it takes to earn a bac pro. A bac pro is basically a vo-tech high school diploma. Now, a student first must complete a BEP (don't ask me what that is, its some kind of pre-bac pro), which takes 2 years and then moves on to 2 more years studying for the bac pro exam. Apparently, Sarkosy wants to get rid of the BEP all together and replace it with a 3 year bac pro. Don't ask me why a shorter vocational diploma made so many students so mad. As some of my students who didn't protest said "I think they love school." Maybe; I think its more like they don't like Sarkosy and so they are willing to protest any changes he tries to make. Also, they are probably in agreement with the more legitimate concerns of the university students and the fonctionaires. Who knows? The students here did brake some windows in their enthusiasm. That's dedication.

I also feel the need to tell the world about a special lady named Maman. Not my maman, who is also very special but whose actual name is Debbie, but a cabaret style singer at a local bar who calls herself Maman. Maman and her husband, Titi, who plays the piano, perform every Tuesday night at Le Piano Bleu. They sing French favorites in a truly cheesy fashion and they
sometimes play a name that tune style quiz! I have an advantage when they play American songs but since I know approx. 4 French songs I never get those right. Luckily our team is made up of French and American people so we have all of our bases covered. My friend Leah has convinced me a total of 3 times to sing with her when Maman needed a pause. Our perfomances have ranged from borderline catastrohic to mediocre but its been fun all the same. I've included one picture of Maman and one of me singing with Leah and this other girl who sings sometimes there. I don't remember her name but she is very nice. In that one you can also see Titi playing the keyboard.




P.S. My roommate Maud called our landlord the other day about the Internet. He had a new story of course. This time he said that we need to call the company and deal with getting it installed. We'll pay for it but he'll reimburse us for some of it. This new plan is fine with me since I know Maud will actually get the job done instead of lying about it for almost 2 months like the landlord.

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Thanksgiving à la Française

Last Saturday several of us Americans went to Rennes because we had volunteered to cook a traditional Thanksgiving dinner for some French friends. (We all worked onThanksgiving Day, which is why we had to go on Saturday.) We got there around noon and ourfriends came and met us at the train station. We went to Carrefour to pick up the ingredients and then headed to our friend's place to start cooking. The French guys had managed to find a turkey (it cost 67€) but it was not sufficiently butchered for most North American tastes. That is to say, it still had a head and organs. Luckily some brave souls, who, afterwards, named themselves the Gutwrenchers, got in there and did what had to be done while the vegetarians hid in the living room.

We prepared a huge fest having been told that there would be about 10 hungry French people joining us. In addition to the turkey we had green bean casserole, herbed potatoes, roasted vegetables, salad, sweet potatoes, creamed corn, cranberry sauce, two pumpkin pies and an apple crumble. I am proud to say that the North Americans pulled their weight at the dinner table. To my great shame and disappointment, the same cannot be said for our French guests. Not only did they not indulge in the gluttony we expected after slaving in the kitchen all afternoon (only one serving each??), but some of them (sin of all sins) had eaten BEFORE THEY CAME! The North Americans tried to pick up the slack but, frankly, we were not expecting France to drop the ball like that and there were a lot of leftovers. (Which we happily consumed the next day for brunch.)

While the French people were very nice to let us take over their kitchen for the day and it was fun to spread our great holiday to an interested and curious new audience, the moral of the story is, North Americans have more robust appetites than French people and Thanksgiving just doesn't really translate.

p.s. I am also very disappointed to report that a slightly (read: perhaps more than slightly) immature Frenchmen drew a rude picture on our Thanksgiving (paper) table cloth, which we had decorated with bilingual Thanksgiving greetings, pictures of cornucopias and pumpkins, and hand-turkeys.

Thursday, November 22, 2007

MAYDAY

My little friend the mosquito is back!! I thought mosquitos died in the cold but this seems to be some kind of genetically engineered super mosquito. I think she may be back because now I have heat in my room. It's possible that I have to make a choice between have a warm room and not being covered with mosquito bites. Maybe we can find a happy medium because right now my room is like a jungle. It's probably about 80° and I can't turn the knob on the radiator. I'll think I'll have to get my land lady back over to fix it so I can create a more temperate environment that is less conducive to mosquito life than the rainforest habitat I've got going on currently.

In other news, two of my classes were canceled today, unless any more are canceled that will bring my total to 8 hours of work this week! ahhh France . . .

P.S. Happy Thanksgiving!!!


P.P.S. Update: Another class was canceled giving me a grand total of 7 hours of work this week.

Monday, November 19, 2007

Another Great Weekend

Thursday night was a very special day here in France. It was the day the Beaujolais Nouveau came out and all the bars in town had specials going on featuring it. A few of my friends and roommates went out to experience it together. It was pretty fun and the Beaujolais was good and reminded me of Thanksgiving! Friday night was nothing special but Saturday night a lot of the St. Brieuc assistants went to a party in Lannion chez Sophia. We had a lot of fun and the next day we were able to visit some of the Lannion beaches. See below:


My landlady came over today to help me with some paperwork so that the French government can start paying most of my rent (which is what they do for poor people, even foreigners). She also fixed the heat in my room (!) and told me that the Internet was coming very soon since they'd finally gotten a response from the Internet provider. Right now I'm supposed to be working on a translation as a favor for one of the teachers t my school so I'd better get on that!

Monday, November 12, 2007

Fun Weekend!

It's Monday afternoon after a really fun weekend. Friday night I had a party at my house for the assistants in St. Brieuc and Lannion. My excuse was that it was to celebrate that we were all back from our various vacations but really it was just because I like parties. I made chocolate covered pretzels and bought cheese and bread. I also found a bottle of wine for €1.20 and one of cidre for €1.50. They weren't good but I was still impressed. We had a good time and then went out to O'Kenny together for some Kilkenny (obviously). We also went to the worst (and only) night club in town. After that all the out of towners came back to my place to sleep on couches etc. Lot's of fun!
The next night we went to a Fest Noz (which means fête de nuit, or night party, in breton) in Lamballe. There were traditional musicians playing breton music and we all (tried) to learn the traditional dances. It was a really good time. It started at 9pm and I couldn't believe that by the time we were all ready to go at 2 there were lots of Grandmas and Grandpas still going strong. There were also lots of young people there, which was interesting because I don't think teenagers in the States would be interested in dancing in lines all night with their parents, holding on to each other by their pinkies but they were really into it. There was one huge guy in a kilt, which I later found out is not really traditional breton gear so I think maybe he was just insane, but he knew the words to all the songs and whenever the musicians tooks breaks he would sing songs along so people didn't have to stop dancing. I forgot my camera (of course) but I'll add pictures once someone sends me some!

p.s. By popular request I'll add that there was call and response singing, accordian, guitar, violin, bagpipes and some kind of recorder type instrument (maybe a clarinet or a bombarde). The music was really good and lively; similar to the feeling of Irish traditional music. The pictures are still in the works!

Monday, November 5, 2007

Out and About in St. Brieuc

Pictures of My House and Town:
my house:













my room:












my desk in my room:









kitchen:










dining area:









living room:










crazy toilet 1:










crazy toilet 2:










St. Etienne's Cathedral:









Super old Church from the 1300s:












Beautiful Valley:










View from my old room at the high school:

Saturday, November 3, 2007

Ireland!! (Lots of new pictures!)

I just got back yesterday from my trip to Ireland with Sophia. I have lots of stories and I hope I remember all of them. If not though, I'm sure Sophia will, so reading both our blogs should give you the full picture. Also, I've brought my laptop to an Internet cafe so I can load my pictures. There were several days that I forgot my camera but Sophia was a diligent picture taker and I'm sure she'll upload lots of pictures I can steal!
First and foremost, I started with a picture of Kilkenny which is a delicious creamy beer that must be made by Guinness since it's always served in a Guinness glass. It deserves its place at the top of this entry as it played an important role in our Irish Experience.

Our plqn flew out of Nantes and we got to the airport a very responsible 2 hours early. We stopped in the bookstore to look at some guidebooks of Ireland (since we hadn't done too much planning) and a little girl walked over to us and starting staring. Assuming that as a 6 year old she wasn't used to hearing people speak another language I greeted her with a friendly "Bonjour." She answered back "Hello" in perfect English. Her name was Cody and she and her parents and her brother Patrick were living in France now but we from England originally. Its especially funny because Patrick looks, well, like a Patrick and not at all like a French boy. I'd seen him early in the airport and wondered if maybe he spoke English (or maybe looked really Celtic because he was breton?) My Anglophone-dar turned out to be right and Patrick joined our conversation pretty soon, too. Cody was, as many 6 year olds are, very blunt and after telling her we were American she asked "Is that why you talk so weird?" After telling her we were English teachers she gave us her (tentative) blessing, saying "Yea, I guess you sort of speak English." I think Sophia and I really were destined to meet Patrick and Cody though because after telling them our names Cody informed us "My goat's called Sarah and we used to have one called Sophie too, but she drowned." (Sophia was only slightly put off by my suggestion that she was somehow the reincarnation of Sophie, the dead goat).
Oh yea, and we almost missed our plane. This was not our fault since the gate number was not listed on the departure screen and we were also given some bad directions by a cafe worker. Luckily Sophia's sharp ears recognized our names being called (pronounced terribly, of course) by the woman over the loud speaker. If Sophia hadn't been there I'd probably still be in Nantes, waiting in Hall 3, wondering when they'd get around to announcing our gate number.
Luckily, that wasn't the case and we made it Dublin just fine. Once there we checked into our hostel and went about finding something to eat. Note to travelers: Dublin is much more expensive than small town France, budget accordingly. Sophia and I managed to find an Indonesian place (Along with my stellar Anglophone-dar I also have developed Ethnic-food-dar) and split some serviceable vegetarian food. After that we found a really fun bar and after a couple of pints of Kilkenny pushed our way to the front of the crowd and sang along to the live music. The musician was really fun and played The Beatles, Oasis, Elvis, etc. We went home quite early that night because we were tired from traveling and Sophia was a little sick. We felt like we had gained an hour though because of the time change.


The next day we set about sight-seeing in Dublin and first we went to see Trinity College where the Book of Kells is housed. We decided to take a guided tour because it was only 2 Euros more than the admission to the Book of Kells exhibit and it was super interesting. For one thing, we learned that the library at Trinity contains the largest room of any library in the world. (It's only a tiny bit bigger than the library at Trinity College,Cambridge but as the tour guide said, "They treasure every centimeter.") We also learned that there's a bell that rings every day during term at 6:15 calling all the students to dinner. This dinner is mandatory and students need special permission to miss it. However, no one ever misses it because its free! (Not too surprising that the 2 facts I most remember about Trinity are about books and food . . .) This is a picture of us in front of the Commons (Dinner) Bell and next to it is a picture of me in front of a scupture just like the one we saw at the Vatican.


It was forbidden to take pictures of the Book of Kells so the ones up there are from the Internet to show you what it looks like. Before getting to Trinity all I knew was that the Book of Kells was a famous illuminated manuscript so I'll tell you what I learned to make it more interesting. The Book of Kells is an illuminated manuscript of the 4 Gospels created in the 9th century by monks in Scotland and brought to Kells, Ireland for safekeeping (the Vikings were beginning to raid the monasteries of the British Isles around this time). Apparently there are several theories about the origin of the Book of Kells but that is the one we were told at Trinity. The Book had a beautiful gold and gem-encrusted cover and therefore was quite valuable. Eventually it was stolen but it is hypothesized that the thief was so frightened once he realized he'd stolen a copy of the Gospels that he hid it in a field. (He wasn't too religious to take the priceless cover, however.) The farmer who owned the field eventually found it and returned it to the Church where it stayed until they turned it over to Trinity for proper preservation. It was extremely beautiful in person and so were the other illuminated manuscripts on display there.
After Trinity we had a delicious "cooked Irish breakfast" (it was 2pm but we weren't complaining about details) and then headed over to Christ Church Cathedral, which I was surprised to find out seeing as we were in Ireland, was a Protestant Cathedral. This is because, until the 1800s it was illegal to have Catholic Churches on major roads. So, although like every other 1000 year old Church, it started out Catholic; the English changed it to Anglican after the Reformation, and it remained that way. The only Catholic churches are on smaller roads. St. Patrick's Cathedral in Dublin is also Protestant for the same reason. Here is Christ Church:


After the Cathedral we went to Dublin Castle where we learned a ton about the history of Ireland, Northern Ireland and England. I'll spare you the gory details (pun intended) since I'm sure you know that it's a long story and would turn this into even more of a history lesson. One cool thing we learned, though, was about the Irish flag. The orange strip is for the Loyalists who wanted to remain a part of the UK, the green strip is for the Nationalists who wanted to separate from the UK and the white in between represents peace between these two groups. This picture is of Dublin Castle:

That night we went back to the same bar as the night before and after it closed we were making out way to (ahem) another bar when a drunken (probably) homeless woman, clutching a beer (in a glass!!) approached me and asked for a Euro so she could by another drink. I had to laugh, although I appreciated her honesty, and decline, telling her I needed my money for my own beers. She then told me I had ugly teeth and an ugly smile. At least I have teeth, lady.
This is the approximate location of our encounter with the drunk:

The next day we made our way to County Cork where we stayed in Cobh (cove). Cobh is a beautiful fishing village with the steepest hill in Ireland with beautiful, brightly colored houses along the road. Its called the Deck of Cards.

Cobh was also the last port of call for the Titanic and town where the very first person to be checked in on Ellis Island came from. Cobh also had a beautiful Cathedral which was Catholic, because it was built after the law passed allowing big, Catholic churches on main roads.
We looked around Cork City a little bit, too. It's a really cute city and it felt more Irish then Dublin, which is so international. Here it is!

Most importantly though, we saw Blarney castle and kissed the Blarney Stone!


The picture to the left is Blarney Castle and the one on the right is the view from the top. They really aren't kidding when they say Ireland is green! Apparently, since we've kissed the Blarney Stone, Sophia and I now have the gift of eloquence!

The picture is of me kissing the stone.


After visiting Blarney we headed back to Dublin in time to take a Halloween Ghost tour of the city led by Zazimus the blind street poet. Here he is:

We heard ghost stories about Dublin Castle, Christ Church Cathedral, St. Audoen's Church (built in 1190!!) and the medieval city walls. It was really fun, pretty cheesy but a little spooky at the end, especially when we were in the graveyard at St. Audeon's. I'll just tell one ghost story:
The Church was going broke so they decided to rent out the crypt of Christ Church to whomever wanted it. The man who took them up on the deal starting running a brothel (I'm serious) out of the crypt. However, he had to close it during the winter months because it got so cold and damp down there. On the last night of the season he had a huge party at the crypt and at last call he threw everyone out. When he came back the next Spring he found the skeleton of a British officer with his sword drawn, surrounded by the skeletons of rats. The officer had been too drunk to realize it was last call and was locked in all winter with the rats who ATE HIM ALIVE before eventually starving to death themselves. The moral of the story is don't go to brothels, especially one in the basement of a church.

We flew out of Dublin the next day. We stayed two nights in Rennes with some friends from St. Brieuc and Rennes to celebrate Halloween and prolong the vacation (esp. because we all got paid on Friday!) and now I'm back in St. Brieuc having a post-vacation vacation!